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The
Hunza valley is a very special place. It is located in one of the most
spectacular mountain areas in the world and has very special people. The
latter are very gentle even though their history has been rough. Their
religion is the Ismaili branch of Shia. Our guide referred to them as Shia
Imami. They broke away from the Shia over a dispute regarding the seventh
imam in the 8th c. CE. The present Iman is Karim Aga Khan who
traces his lineage to Ali. He lives in London. What sets Ismailis apart from
other muslims, is that they are much less dogmatic and quite relaxed in their
religious observances. That, unfortunately, makes them a target for other
muslims. Hunza
was an independent kingdom until 40 years ago when it became part of
Pakistan. The
white building in the lower left corner of the picture above was our hotel.
We were the only guests. Tourism, once a main source of income for the
region, has been effectively killed by the Afghan, Pakistan, and Taliban
terror problems. There are no guides left which is the reason that our guide
came all the way from Karatchi in the south of Pakistan. |
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The map on the left shows the location of the Hunza valley
in northern Pakistan. The main city is Karimabad and that’s where we stayed. |
Here is another view of our hotel with the mountain peak
called lady finger in the background and below. |
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The pictures to the right
and below are views from our hotel showing the Diran Peak (23,622 ft). |
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Juergen and Amir Khan
at the Hunza river. Juergen got a local Hunza hat which is very comfortable. |
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We took a jeep into one
of the valleys to a village called Nagyr. |
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The scenery is ever
changing and spectacular. |
While we stopped for
pictures we saw this fellow waving from his house. People here are Shiites
and not as well off as the Ismailis. |
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Our final destination
was the Batura Glacier Mountain (21,000 ft) above and right with the “black”
glacier (above and below). |
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Whenever we stopped,
out of nowhere, people appeared and offered locally found and crafted
jewelry. They were not pushy at all, waiting patiently. |
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One of the ruby
necklaces followed Yvonne home… |
In Karimabad is the
Baltit fort which was the royal palace for 750 years (until the last century).
It played a role in the Great Game. It’s now a museum. |
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This man was at the
ticket counter and we actually met him in his son’s woodwork shop (see below)
while we were walking up to the castle. Very few tourists are around. Many people have taken
his photo and sent copies
to him. He showed us a drawer full! |
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We were shown around by
the curator whose grandfather was the high official who welcomed Colonel
Younghusband, a famous player in the Great Game. The curator studied at the
Museum für Völkerkunde in Munich and now loves Germans so we were very
welcome guests. |
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View from one of the Baltit
Fort windows. |
The security guard at
the Fort initially didn’t want to smile, just look distinguished and proper.
We did finally manage to make him laugh. He was a very friendly fellow, like
most other people in Hunza. |
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Yvonne poses with a Tajik
lady in a shop that sells local weavings and embroidery. As we find so often,
she wouldn’t smile for the photo because
she had few teeth. It’s sad. |
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This is the son of the
man at the ticket booth for the Baltit fort. We bought one of his beautifully
crafted wooden spoons (for one dollar). |
We took another jeep
ride to the so-called eagle’s nest and got early evening shots of this
magnificent glacier on the right and the mountain below. |
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A local carrying a
heavy load with Mt. Rakaposhi (23,364 ft) in the background. |
While walking around in
Karimabad, we ran into someone who manages another hotel and whom Amir Khan
knew. We were invited to his house and his wife and daughters served us
delicious snacks and tea. |
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Even the potato flowers
are beautiful in Hunza. |
Cherries were just in
season (in late May at an elevation of 7400 ft) and they were delicious. |
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We talked to this local
guy (Amir Khan translated). We really liked his face and his eyes. |
These kids were cooling
bunches of cherries in the cold glacier canal. Canals bring the glacier water
to the fields and homes. |
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