The three-day Niger river ride on a pinasse took us to Timbuktu (actually Timbuktu is some 10 miles north of the Niger river). The picture above shows us in front of the famous Djingareiber mosque built in 1325 (also a UNESCO WHS).

We spent two nights in Timbuktu and did a lot of sightseeing. Most tourists fly to Timbuktu and don’t stay overnight. Our guide told us that we and four other Tourists were the only over nighters on the first night. A few more came the second night.

We had some concern going to Timbuktu because of recent kidnappings in the outlying areas of Mali. At the time of our visit, Timbuktu was off limits for the French (French hostages were held and their fate was unknown). We decided to include Timbuktu because of its rich history and fame; and we’re glad we did so. Time magazine of 30 April 2012 compiled a list of the most influential places in history. Timbuktu made the list because “It was the link of one of the most important trade routes in Africa as far back as the 11^th c. and the remnants are still there.”

In the fall of 2011, several tourists were kidnapped and one German tourist was killed when he resisted. In May 2012, Islamic fundamentalists blew up a tomb of a venerated sufi saint because they considered it idolatry… They also declared strict Sharia law.

Timbuktu was founded in the 12^th c. by Tuareg nomads. For a while it was just an oasis for travelers crossing the desert. Toward the end of the 14^th c. gold and salt trading routes crossed this conveniently located place at the end of the desert and close to the Niger river. In the 16^th c. there were some 150 Islamic schools and students came from far away drawn by an academic reputation second to none in the western Sahara. Today, there are still extensive collections of old manuscripts maintained by the original families. There are groups trying to get funding to protect these manuscripts.

Above, right and below are pictures of the Djingareiber mosque, one of three UNESCO World Heritage Site mosques in Timbuktu. Here we’re on the roof of a building across the street from the mosque.

We had to take a local guide (in addition to Nianamou). He is on Juergen’s left and also shown explaining the doors below. He was knowledgeable and very nice. We asked him to put his scarf in the Tuareg way for this photo. He was 19 and going to college, studying nursing. He said he wanted to help educate the women Tuaregs toward better health.

The interestingly decorated doors above and left belong to the second WHS mosque named Sidi Yahia Mosque and madrassa dating from the 15^th c.

Right and below is the last of the three mosques, the Sankore mosque built in the 14^th c. Together, the three great mosques and madrassas formed an important and influential Islamic learning center.

To commemorate the end of a 1996 Tuareg rebellion and a truce between the Tuaregs and the Mali government , the monument on the right was built with a hill of surrendered weapons (embedded in concrete) in front of the monument (close-up below). Tuaregs really don’t like this memorial.

At the time of this writing (spring 2012), another Tuareg rebellion separated the Tuaregs from Mali. This rebellion also involved Islamic fundamentalists, unwelcome in Timbuktu. So it goes.

We stopped at a local school during class (right and below) and watched those delightful children. Note boys and girls together.

This lunch in Timbuktu was a delicious local specialty consisting of huge dumplings. After the recent (2012) take-over by Tuaregs and Islamic fundamentalists, the beer Juergen and Nianamou share wouldn’t be available under the strict Sharia laws that govern this region now. That’s one reason Juergen doesn’t want to convert to Islam.

The following pictures are street scenes in “downtown” Timbuktu. There are very few paved streets.

Salt slabs from the salt mines of Taoudenni in the north.

Major street in Timbuktu.

A lady baking bread in an oven.

Nope, that ain’t booze. This is a gas station that sells gasoline stored in whatever containers are available.

The great Sahara desert starts just outside of Timbuktu. A few camels are available for tourist rides.

On the edge of town was this reservoir with a large, walled-in resort complex that belonged to Gaddafi. It wasn’t open to the public yet, but we were told that it was in the plans. Wonder what happened to it now with Gaddafi gone and the Timbuktu under Tuareg control.

We took a long hike into the desert, it was absolutely wonderful. The Google Earth picture below shows in red our walking tracks in Timbuktu and the location of our desert walk.

Our local guide is on the left, Yvonne in the middle, and Nianamou on the right.

Watching this scarab beetle motoring along was fun.

Tuareg tents.

Belas put on a demonstration of the music on the right and…

…fighting dances on the left. Belas used to be slaves of the Tuaregs, but that all was ended by the Mali government long ago. They have a very similar culture to the Tuaregs. They still live near one another.

We left Timbuktu early in the morning to catch a ferry across the Niger. On the other side of the Niger, a car picked us up and took us back to Mopti.

Above, right and below salt slabs which are still an important commodity and which are being transported on the Niger to Mopti, Segou and Bamako.

We’re on the ferry waiting to cross the Niger.

A sunken ferry…

On the Niger after an incredible visit to Timbuktu.