Tripoli is a vibrant city with many faces and a long history. The above picture is of one of the entrances to the medina showing both a mosque and a Catholic church. The thumbnail on the index page linking to this page shows a Catholic cathedral converted to a mosque. The women almost always wear hijabs (scarves). On the right is a sight on an expressway that one wouldn’t find home. SO cute! We started and ended our Libyan trip in Tripoli and returned several times in between.

The main square in Tripoli is called the Green Square and is dominated by the Al-Saraya al-Hamara, a castle dating back to the Romans with additions and modifications by the Spaniards, Knights of St. John of Malta, the Ottomans and subsequent rulers. The medina entrance shown above is also visible.

The following are a few shots of the mood inside the medina.

We walked these small lanes even at night and at times were pretty much lost. However, there was never any fear for our safety. In the medina you eventually arrive in a square or shopping street.

This was taken at lunch time when most shops are closed.

Getting ready for the trip to the Sahara, we decided to buy some typical local clothes. When Juergen wore these clothes and hat, our guide was often asked by Libyans if Juergen was a local. For Libyans, Juergen reminded them of their most famous and venerated figure: Omar Mukhtar. He was a cleric who led the independence resistance against the Italians who had occupied Libya from 1914- 1936. Omar Mukhtar led a guerilla fight that ultimately resulted in Libya’s independence. A critically acclaimed 1982 movie called the “Lion of the Desert” with Anthony Quinn playing Mukhtar describes that struggle. Omar Mukhtar was hanged publicly by the Italians in front of 20,000 of his followers. We’d recommend the movie.

We found this large poster of Omar Mukhtar in our hotel in Al Bayda. Mukhtar and his fighters hid in caves in Benghazi’s mountainous regions. A picture of some of the caves is shown in the picture on the right following the 10 Dinar note. This photo was taken by the Italians the night before they hung him. The brown jacket that Juergen wears was a gift from a guide in Cyrenaica (the original jacket above was black). He and Juergen really hit it off.

Omar Mukhtar is featured on the 10 Dinar note. When we visited the Greek ruins in Cyrene, Juergen walked past the boy in the photo below. Yvonne heard the boy nudge his mother and whisper “Omar Mukhtar.” We’d gotten used to this being a fun way to meet people, so Yvonne asked his mother if her son wanted a photo taken with Juergen. She laughed and said he would. He was shy. We had a wonderful conversation with the mother and her sister (see the Greek and Roman sites page).

There are a number of mosques in the medina.

For worshippers with weak or sore backs, one may use any of the simple wooden backrest perched against the columns. Juergen tried this one out.

One problem for travelers in Tripoli (or the rest of Libya) is the lack of signs marking the hotels and restaurants. The picture on the right is the entrance to probably the best fish restaurant in Tripoli named Mat’am Obaya. No markings, not even in Arabic (which wouldn’t help that much). One just either knows or asks the locals. We had several outstanding seafood lunches in this restaurant which is located one of the narrow streets in the medina. Yvonne loved the stuffed calamari and the octopus salad was outstanding; the freshest tasting we’d ever had!

A large selection of hijabs in the medina.

The arch of Marcus Aurelius, completed in 164 CE, is the last intact remnant of the ancient Roman city of Oea. Just to the right of the arch is the Dar Zumit hotel where we stayed on two different occasions. The entrance to the hotel (below) is unassuming but classy. Below right is the dining room in the enclosed courtyard. Dinner and breakfast in this setting is a very relaxing and intimate affair.

On the right is our room which was decorated in the traditional style. All rooms are nicely decorated and very cozy. Staying at this hotel was a very special experience.

At the harbor, there is a large fish market. Nowhere in the world we’ve been have we seen (that includes home) a market that was so clean. You can see the pride with which the merchants display their fish for a photo. All of the fish counters are white marble.

This fellow worked at one of many stations where people had their fish cleaned and prepared the way they wanted it. He insisted that we pose with him. Everyone was really friendly and we had a lot of fun. He did a speed scaling of this fish for our video.

The Al-Saraya al-Hama castle is now home one of the finest collections of classical art in the Mediterranean. Above left, a beautiful fish mosaic. Above right, a mother goddess that we first encountered in Anatolia with the mysterious protuberances. On the left, the three graces (found in Cyrene).

A former Roman catholic cathedral converted into a mosque.