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Libya’s largest
and most spectacular example of Berber architecture is Qasr Al-Haj (Qasr
means both castle and a fortified granary).
The circular and completely enclosed granary was built in the 12th
c. to store and protect the harvest of the surrounding area. |
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From the
courtyard one can see all 114 storage rooms, exactly the number of suras in
the Koran. There are three storeys of rooms above the ground and another 30
underground. |
Access to the upper
storeys. Some are still in use today. |
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Tarmeisa (some 15
mi SW of Qasr Al-Haj) is an abandoned Berber stone village on a narrow
outcrop overlooking the Sahel al-Jefara. The local youth on the left not only
climbed the steep rocks like a lizard…
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…he also jumped
between the rocks, and that in sandals. |
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The old stone
village. |
Mosque and
mihrab. |
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This room has
some Hebrew inscriptions. |
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In the adjacent modern
village, Yvonne made friends with local girls who just returned from school. This picture
illustrates why Yvonne later also wore a scarf. While it’s not mandatory in
Libya, it makes a foreign female not stand out that much. |
Grain mill. |
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Another view of
old Tarmeisa. |
We visited a few
of the preserved Berber underground houses which provide refuge from cold
winters and hot summers. On the right is a courtyard as seen from above. |
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Typical Berber
furnishings. |
Right and below is
one of the underground rooms. |
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Time hasn’t
changed that much. |
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At the western
end of the Jebel Nafusa, the regional center of Nalut is home to another
exceptional qasr as well as an old town tumbling down a hill. |
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This is a mosque
with its minaret. |
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The architecture
of the qasr is reminiscent of what we found in Tunisia and which was made
famous through star war movies that were filmed in such structures. |
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Underground rooms
(see above) were used to preserve olive oil; above ground rooms customarily
housed barley and wheat. |
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Access to the
upper storage areas is provided with pulleys. |
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