The trip to the Caucasus was almost cancelled because Georgia initiated hostile actions in the break-away region of South Osetia in early August 2008 resulting in an invasion by Russia and associated heavy fighting. Fortunately, the hostilities stopped just before our trip and we could go. We needed to go through Georgia into Armenia, since Azerbaijan and Armenia have mutually closed borders.

The picture above shows the iconostasis of 11^th c. Svetitskhoveli cathedral in Mtskheta. The background for this page is a fresco of an angel’s choir at David Gareja.

Above is our GPS track in red. We traveled 521 mi in Georgia.

In the Georgian capital of Tbilisi, we saw these pro-western posters which really irritate the Russians.

Tbilisi’s skyline is dominated by the Narikala Fortress. The walls date from the 4^th c. and were rebuilt numerous times over the centuries.

Getting up to the fortress is not trivial. On the left, this is the regular way - not some wild short cut.

View over Tbilisi from the fortress.

The Sameba cathedral (also visible in the picture above) is the main Georgian Orthodox Christian cathedral and was completed in 2004.

The Abanotubani sulfuric baths are famous. Alexander Dumas and Pushkin both bathed here.

The 11^th c. Svetitskhoveli cathedral is part of the Mtskheta UNESCO World Heritage Site (located about 12 mi north of Tbilisi). Georgia’s conversion to Christianity took place in Mtskheta in 337 CE.

The pictures above, to the left and below show the inside of the Svetitskhoveli cathedral. The interior decorations are considered among the finest in the country.

The Ananuri castle (45 mi from Tbilisi) was the seat of a feudal dynasty that ruled the area from the 13^th c. Within the crenellated wall are two churches (built in the 17^th c.). The watchtower dates from the 12^th c. In the background is the Zhinvali reservoir.

Carvings outside the church.

We continued north on the Georgian Military Highway along many switch backs. The spectacular highway is the only north-south route through the Greater Caucasus from Russia to Georgia. When we traveled, there was no border crossing open into Russia. Not because of the recent military conflict but because Russia closed it to prevent Chechen rebels from using Georgian territory for their operations. The highway dates back to at least 150 BCE and was completed by Czar Alexander I in 1817.

We continued to Gudari which is home to a winter ski resort built by the Austrians. Why is a mystery. There are only four lifts with unimpressive slopes. The hotel we stayed in was without any character and run down.

There are colorful geological formations along the road.

We continued north to Kazbegi just a few miles south of the Russian border.

Kazbegi is home to the beautiful hilltop Gergeti Trinity Church, which dates back to the 14^th c.

We returned to Tbilisi and went from there east and south to one of the most significant historical and religious sites in all of Georgia. David Gareja is the name given to a complex of 12 different cave monasteries in this semi-arid region of Georgia (directly on the border to Azerbaijan).

One of Georgia’s 13 Syrian Fathers, David Gareja founded the monastery in the 6^th c. when he made his home in a natural cave above the silent desert. By the 12^th c., over 2000 monks lived here, and the place was known for its distinctive school of fresco painting and manuscript illumination. It was sacked and looted by the Mongols in the 13^th c. and by Timur’s armies who overran it in the 14^th c. Some of the worst destruction was caused by the Soviet army because they used the area as an artillery range due to its physical similarities to Afghanistan. So it goes.

One has to climb up to the ridge to visit some of the interesting cave paintings. Behind Yvonne is Azerbaijan.

Cave entrances.

Above, to the right, and below are some of what’s left of the magnificent cave paintings.

Some challenging (at least for us) rock climbing was necessary to get to this cave.

Getting to the cave above required getting around that “tower” above, when there was quite a drop off below. The frescoes in that room were worth it!

Georgia is known for heavy eating, drinking and singing. We found it heavy.

The end.